Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Painting Kitchen Cabinets

I recently finished faux painting kitchen cabinets.  This was a big project which took about a month to complete.  I have painted many kitchen cabinets but this particular project was very unique.  The condition of the paint on the existing kitchen cabinets was very bad.  I am not sure what kind of paint was used but let me show something of the condition of the cabinets in the first picture I have .

This photo shows the extent of the deterioration of the surface paint on the doors.  It has cracked and chipped off.  The backside of the doors had no chipping off but did have some minor cracking here and there.  The wood itself was in great condition, it was just the paint job that had failed.

So what to do about that?  I could only think of two choices, one is to simply replace all the cabinets, the other choice is to go with it and use what you have but make the cabinets distressed in areas where they were not thereby creating a more cohesive look for the whole kitchen.

You might think, "Wait a minute Bob, how about sanding down and repainting?"  First of all look how thick that paint job is.  Then on top of that the existing paint job was cracked all  over so you would actually have to strip off all the paint down to the bare wood.  IMO that is not anywhere near feasible.  The only way to do that that I know of is to immerse the doors into a chemical bath of sorts which runs the risk of ruining the wood itself.  So it is really not an option.  Besides it might be more expensive than buying new doors or cabinets, and after they were stripped you would still have to repaint them.

In the next photo you can see the extent of the chipping on the doors.  You can't see the cracking from taking a picture this far back but it's there also.

Now of course not all the cabinets where as bad as those above.  That section is actually the worst.  On the other side of the kitchen the existing paint was not chipping hardly at all but still cracked.  You can see in the next photo that they don't look too bad, just some little chips here and there but like I said, still the cracking but very subtle on most of those doors, but sooner or later the rest of the cabinets doors will most likely have started to chip away also.

The other thing is you want all the cabinets to have the same look.  So my proposal was to distress the kitchen cabinets uniformly. In order to make all the doors uniform and cohesive I had to take the doors and frame work that were not chipped and had minimal cracking and make them look like the doors that were chipped.

I am going to show you a sequence of photos that explains the steps involved.  The first one is one of the doors that basically was ok.

The first thing I did was create a natural chipping out in various areas of the door.  In step one I used a putty knife to scrap off the paint.  I didn't want to create chipping all over but just a few areas to get the idea across that the paint is chipping off.  I used a the putty knife or scraper instead of sandpaper because I wanted the chip offs to look natural.  If I had used sandpaper to sand thru the paint to the wood that's exactly what it would have looked like, like I had sanded it instead of looking like the paint had chipped off.

In step 2 I then applied the paint and wiped it back off until just a very thin film was covering the center panel.  I taped off around the center panel so I wouldn't get any paint on any other areas.  In the photo below you can see how there is very little paint involved in the final look.

In step 3 I will paint on the vertical areas on either side of the center panel.  Again I tape off the areas to make sure I don't get any over painting on the places I don't want it.  The picture below shows how I have taped off the vertical areas but before I have painted on those areas.

In step 4 I paint in the horizontal areas above and below the center panel.  In the photo below you can see how I have painted in the vertical areas and the top horizontal area.  I still have the bottom horizontal to paint that is why it is still taped off.

The next photo shows the completed door.

This next photo shows some detail how it looks.  The blue arrows indicate where I have painted to age the door and the orange arrows show where I have chipped out to age the door.

The next photo is a great before and after of the same door.

So for all the kitchen cabinets I created the same look by working on the doors that had no chipping and the frame of the cabinets.

Here is a series of the completed project.

Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Paint Bathroom Vanity To Look Like Wood

I had a little job today that was interesting. A newly remolded bathroom got a new vanity installed. I was asked to paint the side fillers to match the wood grain on the vanity.

One of the most challenging aspects of this kind of work is getting the base coat of paint the right color.  If the base coat of paint is not right then you will never get the new work to match the existing wood grain coloring.

So what I do is try to determine the color to use by looking for the light areas in the wood grain and imagining what color I could use based on that.  I have to keep in mind that I will be going over it with layers of different color browns so I can't just use the color I see but I have to determine when the color is painted over how it will match up.

You can see in the first photo the arrows indicate where I was looking at to figure out what base coat to use.  Then as you can see I painted the side fillers that color, the wood there was already primed white when I arrived.

In the next photo I have applied the first layer of wood grain color.

In the next photo I am getting closer by adding more layers of different wood grain color.

The photo below shows the completed project.  I pretty much was able to nail it.

Another angle showing how now the vanity looks like it is all one piece as if it came like that.

By the way here is view from the balcony patio.  The crystal clear waters of the Gulf of Mexico.  That is looking west so you get some great sunsets sitting out on the patio.

Saturday, November 29, 2014

Paint Fireplace Mantel To Look Like Wood

I completed a nice little job this past week.  The project was to paint a new fireplace mantel to look like wood.  This is a very modern sleek look for the mantel in this newly remodeled family room.

The stone on the wall was added and the mantel is newly constructed.   The idea was not to simply stain it but to paint it to match the color of the wood floor and give it a more visually appealing grain pattern.

The next two photos show the first two steps.  First I primed the wood then when that dried I sanded it down and applied the base coat of color.  The empty space on the wall above the mantel is where the tv mounting system will go.

In the next photo you can see the mantel after the first color of wood grain went on.  For this mantel I used a Sherwin Williams color called Toasty for the base coat color, then I used a SW color called Terra Brun for the first wood grain color.  The second and last wood grain color I used is a SW color called Black Bean.

When you compare the photo below with the one above you can how the second color has darkened the mantel to right tone we were looking for. I always use at least two colors for the wood grain look as it give whatever I am painting more depth and provides a more realistic outcome.

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Painting Two Garage Doors To Look Like Wood Grain

I completed a really nice garage door project last week.  I painted two garage doors to look like wood grain.  One was a two car garage door and then opposite it was a single car garage door.

The following two pictures show how I have already cleaned the doors, primed them and applied the base coat of paint.  The color of  the base coat is a Sherwin Williams color called Toasty.  This color will give the faux wood grain the warmth of a real wood door.

In the next photo I have painted the wood grain pattern on the top two rows of  panels.  The lone panel on the third row down only has the first of the two colors I use for the wood grain itself.  I always use two color browns for the wood grain painting.  Typically the first is a medium tone brown and the second color is a dark brown.

On the single door in the next photo you can see how I have almost finished, all I need to paint are the two vertical spaces at either side of the door.  When I get that done and it dries for about an hour I can apply the clear acrylic UV top coat.

The next two photos show the completed doors.  The colors I used to paint the wood grain on these garage doors are Sherwin Williams colors.  The first brown I used is a color called Terra Brun,  the second and darker color brown I used is Black Bean.

The last photo here is a closer view of the wood grain pattern.  I created some pretty dark wood grain lines in this door and effect is really great.  The homeowner loved the doors and it makes a huge improvement of the curb appeal for this home.

Sunday, October 26, 2014

New Industrial Chic Sculpture

I completed a new industrial chic sculpture this week. I love creating this body of artwork.  I am calling it 'Unchained' .

The piece stands 49 inches high and the base is 7.5 inches wide and 12 inches deep.  I make my industrial sculptures from building materials and found objects.  I age the individual pieces if they are not aged when I find them.  I really like the feel  that these sculptures have.  The artwork has a richness and a sense of history about it that is very appealing.

Here are some close up views.

Friday, October 24, 2014

Faux Painting Repair In Powder Bath

I had a small job earlier this week to repair the walls in a powder bath with faux painting that had been patched.  What happened was someone was trying to find a stud in the wall and kept hammering nails above the sink to find one but ended up never finding one.  See the first picture to get a look at all the patched holes.  There is about 20 of them.  It's hard to see the holes that are in the lighter stripe.

There were some various other holes around the walls also.

The big challenge here is to match the existing colors without knowing what those colors are.  This room was faux painted years ago and there were no records of the colors used.  That is one reason I always write down the colors I use on a job.  If I ever need to go back and repair I can always look up what I had used and it makes it ten times easier.

Finding the color of the lighter stripe was much easier than the green.  The thing is with this type of repair close is not good enough, it has to be dead on so you can not tell at all any difference.  I had what I thought were greens that were close enough but I tried and tried and couldn't get it exactly.  So what I ended up doing is mixing yellow and blue together with some of the green I had and with a little white and on and on but finally got it exact.  You can not tell at all.  After it dried and was done I couldn't even find the repaired spots myself and that's what I like to have happen.